Great Ideas To Help You
Win The Battle Of The Walk! 1
By Martin McKenna
Hi, I
hope these cartoon
sheets will help
make walking your
dog much easier. I’ve
tried to include
as many tips
as I can.
Why the walk
is so important
to dogs….
The
walk is a
very exciting part
of your dog’s
day. The two instinctive
times of the
day dogs want
to go on a walk
is in the
morning and again
in the late
afternoon. Missing out on
even one of
these walks means
a big deal
to your dog. Its
frustration will build
up very quickly
with each walk
it doesn’t go on.
Because dogs
like routine, I suggest you
try to take
the same route
each day at
the same time. This
way your dog
will develop nice, familiar walking
habits. Dogs don’t find
routines boring – they find
them reassuring. They like
knowing what to
expect on each
walk. They like feeling
they’re in a
safe, familiar place where
they can relax
and not stay
on high-alert all
the time. They also
like getting to
know the smells
and sights of
other dogs and
creatures in their
walking area. Part of
their fun comes
from leaving social
messages in their
urine and poo
for other local
dogs to smell
and reply to.
If you
want to add
variety
for your dog – just
take it on
additional walks or
drives to new
places – but if you
can – make those 2
normal walks every
day at roughly
the same time
in the same
place. Dogs really do
enjoy and need
those daily walks
off your home
territory! Your backyard –
no matter how
big – will never be
a good enough
substitute for two
daily walks.
Start
missing walks and
your dog will
quickly lose respect
for you as
a leader. You’ll also
see behaviour problems
start up within
days.
Have you read
my other info
sheets yet called, “The
25 secret ways
dogs become our
Boss”?
If
not, you can find them [here] - insert link #####
These sheets are
really useful because
they introduce a
secret game dogs
play that you
might not be
aware of yet.
Here’s the secret
game all dogs
instinctively play every
single day…
Dogs
work out who
the boss is
in any situation
by throwing challenges
at their humans, as
well as other
dogs and animals. If
they win the
challenge – they win valuable
points. Whoever has the
highest score gets
to be Boss. Life
is very simple
in the Dog
World.
It’s
important for you
to read how
you can start
winning the challenges
around your home. Otherwise, if your
dog is the
Boss of your
home – then it won’t
believe you have
the right to
tell it what
to do when
you leave your
property to go
on the dog
walk either.
Some
of the most
important challenges in
the Dog World
are won or
lost in the
inner den area – that
is – in the inside
of your home. “The
25 secret ways dogs become
our boss” info
sheets will help
you win all
the important home
challenges. You can’t start
winning the walking
challenges until you’re
also winning the
home challenges.
What sort of
challenges might your dog throw
at you at
home?
Just
to give you
an idea of
the type of
challenges your dog
might be throwing
at you at
home – here are a few classics…
Classic
challenge 1: Your dog nudges
you for pats.
If you
pat a dog
when it nudges
you, it instantly wins
a point. Problem is, if
your dog scores
more points than
you, it gets to
be your Boss.
TIP: Dogs especially
love dominating kids
and visitors this
way.
Classic challenge
2: You pat your
dog in submissive
places.
The reason
dogs love being
stroked under the
chin and on
their chest is
because it makes
humans more submissive
to them. They win
a point each
time you pat them obediently
in these areas
on their body.
TIP: Watch how
clever some dogs
are at maneuvering
your hand below
their chin, so don’t
let them trick
you! Avoid that chin
and chest area!
Classic
challenge 3: Your dog
grabs everyone’s attention.
Dogs aren’t
as silly as
you think. Crazy, lunatic behavior
is an ingenious
way of grabbing
everyone’s attention. Every second
you stare at
a dog, you’re helping
it win half
a point. Dogs can
quickly notch up
lots of points
by tricking you
into watching them!
TIP: Watch out
if your dog
tricks a crowd
of visitors into
staring at it. A
crowd of humans
can earn an
ambitious dog hundreds
of points very
quickly!
Warning: If you
own a gorgeous
looking dog, then you’ll
have to stop
falling into the
habit of staring
in admiration at it.
Otherwise, you’ll accidently hand
your dog lots
of points. Be aware
that if other people
stare at your
dog a lot
out in public, your
dog is also
scoring lots of
points. One way to
avoid staring at
your dog is
to get into
the habit of
letting your eyes
casually drift over
it, rather instead of ‘locking eyes’
on it for
long periods of
time.
Classic
challenge 4: Your dog jumps
up on people.
Dogs don’t
jump up on
humans because they’re
excited to see
them. They’re deliberately trying
to dominate them
by planting their
scent-mark as high
up on your
body as possible. They win
at least 10
points if they
jump up on someone.
TIP: Dogs especially
like to dominate
people as they
enter the territory. So
keep an eye
out for your
ambitious dog trying
to jump up
on visitors or
when you come
home.
Classic
challenge 5: Your dog’s noise
invades everyone’s eardrums.
Dogs can
use noisy barking
to dominate humans. Every
bark they make
is worth half
a point. Now you
can understand why
some dogs race
around yapping their
head off – they’re trying
to score as
many ‘bark points’
as they can. Even
when you tell
them to be
quiet and they
make a soft
bark – that soft sound
is worth a
fraction of a
point.
Tip: Start making
your home a
Bark-Free Zone. Hush your
dog firmly from
making any noise
around your home
territory – especially
inside your sacred
inner-den area.
Don’t worry,
the sheets, “The 25 secret
ways dogs become
our Boss” will
help you win
all these classic
home challenges. Remember,
if you
want a dog
who obeys you
out on the
walk, then you also
have to win
these classic home
challenges too.
Now what kind
of challenges might
your dog throw
at you out
on the walk?
I
call it the
“Battle of the
Walk” because it
can seem like
one if you
own a dog
with a very
high point score
and a pushy
personality.
These
walking sheets will
help you win
more of these
walking challenges and
get a higher
point score so
the conflict slowly
lessens.
What you’re
trying to prove
to your dog.
From
now on you’re
going to prove
to your dog
you can be
trusted to be
left in charge. Especially when
the two of
you leave the
safety of the
home territory and
go on a
walk out in
public together.
You’ll
know when your
dog trusts you
to be leader
because it’ll stop
throwing non-stop challenges
at you. This is
when the walk
becomes really enjoyable
and fun.
Some
insights that will
help you on
the walk.
Dogs
have ingenious ways
of throwing challenges
at you out
on the walk. Learn
to spot them
as they’re happening. If
you’re ever not
sure if your
dog’s throwing a
challenge at you – ask
yourself this – “Who’s
controlling this situation
right now?”
If
you sense your
dog’s trying to
control the situation – then it’s
probably challenging you.
Here
are some classic
ways your dog
may try to
challenge you out
on the walk….
Dogs pull on
the leash like
a tug-of-war rope.
Dogs
can use the
leash like a
tug-of-war rope. They’re showing
they’re much stronger, fitter and
more persistent than
you are. This is
why some dogs
pull to the
point of almost
choking. They aren’t stupid – they
just think the
pain is worth
putting up with if they
can prove they’re
your Boss. What we want
is a dog who doesn’t
put any tension
on the leash
at all. One day
you should be
able to walk
your dog on
a loose leash
held only lightly
in your fingers. That’s when you’ll know
you’ve won the
tug-of-leash challenge.
So
before we go any
further, let’s find a
way to stop
your dog from
pulling on the
leash.
Here’s
some ideas to
stop there being
any tension on
the leash:
Choose what kind of leash is
easiest on your
soft hands.
I
find the best
leashes to stop
a very badly
pulling dog is
actually a horse
lead rope of
twisted cotton. These chunky
ropes are soft, easy
to grip, cheap and
help to absorb
a lot of
the dog’s energy. They’re extremely
easy for you to hold
and pull. The worst
leashes are cheap, narrow
nylon leashes or
retractable leashes that
are hard to
grip and cut
into your hand. Pushy
dogs learn to use these
as a weapon
against you.
I’m not
a fan of
choke chain collars:
Instead
I use a
wide cotton collar
with a buckle. These
are fairly hard
for a dog
to slip out
of, yet can let
the dog know
you’re serious about
there being no
tension on the
leash. I worry that
if you use
a choke chain
on some extremely
pushy dogs, that they’re
so determined to
remain the Boss, they’ll
almost choke themselves
before you win
all the walking
challenges. Some dogs in
pain just fight
you harder as
they feel pain. Ultimately, however, the choice
of a collar
is a decision
you’ll have to
make yourself. At the
very least, go and
find out from
a training professional
how to use
a choke chain
properly – and make sure
you read these
sheets carefully to
find out all
the challenges on
the walk you
have to win. Otherwise prepare
to listen to
a very pushy
dog choke itself
nearly to death
in order to
protect its job
of being the
Boss of the
walk.
If
your dog can
slip out of
a normal cotton
webbing neck collar
with a buckle, ask
at your pet
shop to see about
harnesses or the
best specialized slip-free
collars they have
that will suit your
dog.
Before you
take one step, learn
to slide your
dog into a
more submissive mood by getting your
dog to come
a few steps
towards you and
sit many times. Repeat
at least 5
to 10 times. Getting your
dog to come
and sit for
you puts you
in control of the
situation. It also wins
you valuable points
before you start.
It
will help if
you lift your
chin high as
you do this. Keep
the commands simple –like
“COME” and “SIT”. Instead of
rewarding with words
or pats, give a
silent gift of
calmness by sleepily
closing your eyes
for a long 2 seconds.
Sometimes
I think pats
and verbal praise
just excite pushy
dogs more, so close
your eyes instead. This
calmly tells your
dog, “Well done. You’re
doing the right
thing.”
It will
also help if you
don’t stare intently
at your dog
all the time – only
when you give
the commands to
“COME” and SIT”
with your chin
raised. This means you
end up looking
down in an
aloof manner at
your dog
Once
your dog respectfully
does as you
ask, you won’t need
to raise your
chin as much.
Does your
dog normally sit on command
for you?
If
not, practice getting your
dog to sit
on command for
you. It’s an extremely
submissive thing for
dogs to do, so
expect resistance from
pushy dogs. Use treats
to begin with – and
I mean amazing
treats of pieces
of pan- fried
chicken in garlic
with the bones
removed – or whatever you
can find that
a dog really thinks
is super-special – and worth
sitting for. Treats are the
money of the
Dog World – so if
you want a
good response – pay well!
If your
dog won’t sit
for the treat, cross your
arms and turn
your back and
keep your chin
raised high. Then turn
around and try
again. Repeat until your
dog sits.
If that
still doesn’t work, walk backwards
and give the
command to “COME”
again and again. Now
you’re cleverly asking
your dog to
take Submissive Steps
towards you. You’ll actually
win a point
per step the
dog takes towards
you. Once it comes
eagerly to you
for a treat, it
will be much
more likely to
sit for you
too.
If your
dog refuses point
blank to sit
for you – this is the
first sign that
the dog is
really openly challenging
you. Work on sitting
over time but
for now just
work on getting
the dog to
“COME” calmly to
you and “WAIT”. You’re still
taking some control
of the situation
which is better
than nothing. Whatever you
do act aloof, firm
and relaxed. Don’t get
frustrated and angry
or upset. Ultimately we want
to show the
dog we’re in
calm control of
this walk.
Some dogs
refuse to sit
for their human until
they trust them
to be a
better leader. Never forget – it’s
a really big
deal for a
dog to trust
you to be
left in charge
of the walk. The
dog is literally
putting its life
in your hands
once it leaves
the safety of
the home territory. If
you want to
prove what a
wonderful, smart leader you
are – learn to play
the secret game
dogs play. The more
points you win
around the house
and out on
the walk, the more
your dog will
come to trust
you.
It
will also help
if you feed
your dog less
in its usual
meals so your
yummy treats become
much more powerful
and persuasive!
Now it’s time
to get rid
of the tension
out of the
leash as you
walk off:
Here’s
some ideas:
Practice in
your back yard
at a time
you normally don’t
take your dog
for a walk
so it’s not
hyper-excited. Make things
easier on yourself – sort out
all of these
‘tension on the
leash’ issues before you
leave your property. At
least then you’ll
know the best
strategies to use
on your dog
before you walk
out the front
gate. If you don’t
have a back
yard, practice inside your
home.
Hold the
leash fairly short, so your
dog can’t go
far from your
side.
Treat this
walk like a race.
Whoever
gets to step
in front is the
winner at any
moment. Until your dog
treats you with
respect, have your dog
walk only at
heel and keep
your chin raised
nice and high. This
says, “I’m in
charge now.”
The
secret is to
make sure you
stay in charge
of the race
by going as
slowly as you
want, getting the dog
to stay at
your side, slightly behind
you, on a short
leash.
If your
dog tries to
push ahead past
you then it’s
trying to win
the walking race. If
it stays politely
at your side, slightly behind
you, then it’s letting
you be Boss
of the Walk.
As we
walk along, I don’t
pat or touch
the dog or
otherwise talk much so
it can concentrate. Also, each pat
you give during
a challenging moment
like this is
quite a submissive
thing for you
to do.
If
the dog tries
to pull ahead
in the race, I
tug the leash
sharply and say, “BACK”
rather than “HEEL”
as it has
a very distinctive, leader-like sound. Give
all commands in a firm, clear, deep voice.
As soon
as your dog
starts to overtake
you
even by an
inch or two, do
something about it.
Say, “BACK”
as you give
a quick, firm tug
on leash. Don’t let
your dog pull for
several paces before
doing something. THE SECRET
TO WINNING THIS
RACE IS TO
STOP YOUR DOG
PULLING THE SECOND
IT PUTS ANY
TENSION ON THE
LEASH.
If jerking
the leash and
saying “BACK” doesn’t
work, you can
stop every single
time the dog
puts even a
little bit of
pressure on the
leash. THIS WILL MEAN
A LOT OF
STOPPING TO BEGIN
WITH. We want to
get the dog
to keep sitting
or at least
waiting for a
long submissive moment
at your side
in the follower’s
spot.
Only
when you feel
the dog’s energy
has turned respectful
do you move
off again, giving the
command “BACK” (which means
‘Stay back behind
me’).
However, for
very stubborn dogs
I calmly use…
THE
OPPOSITE WAY TECHNIQUE.
The second
the dog starts
to pull, straight away – without any
warning – walk briskly in
the opposite direction
with your chin
up, ignoring your dog
completely like this:
Surprised, your dog
will run around
to catch up
with you on
it’s short leash. If
it lunges on
ahead of you
again, simply do it
again and again. Only
continue the walk
when your dog
is calmly and
respectfully walking at your
side without pulling
you at all. There
can’t be any
tension on the
leash at all.
Very pushy
dogs will test
how good you
are many times before
they eventually give
in. This technique might
get excellent results
in minutes, or may
only work after
several walks. Some extremely
pushy dogs
I’ve known tested
me out several
times a walk
for months. Remember: Constantly
lunging ahead to
try and beat
you in the
walking race is not polite,
mannerly behaviour.
If your
dog blocks you
or gets under
your feet just walk
right through it
with your chin
up as though
it’s invisible. Ignore the
yelps and drama – just
be brisk and
firm. Your dog knows
very well what
to do if
it wants to
avoid confusion and
being walked through – it
simply has to
stay nicely at
your side, politely waiting
to see which
direction you’re going
to go in
next.
Dogs will
use any ploy
they can think
of
to remain Boss
of the Walk – especially if
they’ve held this
top job for
years. Your dog might
use yelping noise
and drama to
try and get
you to stop
this technique. If it can trick
you into giving
in, it can keep
on merrily pulling
and winning more
points off you. So
don’t weaken! Ignore the
fuss – and walk through
the dog as
though it’s invisible.
Pretend nothing unusual
is happening at
all.
After being
stepped on a few times you’re
dog will give
in and respectfully
and politely melt
out of your
way. Now smoothly walk
off with your
chin raised high. Remember – the second
you feel any
tension in the
leash – move off in
the opposite direction
pulling the dog
briskly along with
you.
Every now
and again with
a very stubborn dog I
walk straight towards
it with my
chin up. I calmly
make it walk
hurriedly backwards to
get out of
my brisk way. Every
step the dog
takes back is
letting me win
a point. If you
hold your arm
out that’s holding
the leash, you can
help keep the
dog away from
your body like
this:
Be
unpredictable, brisk, calm, determined….your dog
will quickly lose
confidence that it
has control of
this weird situation. Try not
to intently stare
at your dog
as you calmly
walk into it
otherwise it will
feel too important
and will continue
to challenge you.
What we’re
looking for is your
dog to realise
that you’re serious
about winning this
walking race. That you have
a few clever
techniques that can
outwit it so
that the only
safe place where
it won’t get
stepped on is
at your side
in the follower’s spot.
Now you’re
taking smooth, calm control
of the walk. If the
dog starts to
put the slightest
amount of
tension on the
leash – use the techniques
I’ve shown you
to persuade your
dog to walk
politely at your
side. Don’t wait until
the dog has
pulled you along
for a few
minutes before responding. Get in
the habit of
instantly and smoothly
using The Opposite Way
Technique the second your
dog starts putting
any tension on
the leash. It will
really baffle your
dog if you
stay calm and
aloof with your
chin raised high. Especially if
you act as
though nothing unusual
is happening at
all.
If your
dog tries a
few tricky moves – be even
trickier. Some dogs may
try to hang
back and stand
still. Others try to
lie down and
hug the ground. They
know if they
stay rock-stubborn-still then
you can’t use
the Opposite Way Technique
against them. If this
happens you can
try the Pretend
Mouse Technique.
The
Pretend Mouse Technique:
If
your dog stubbornly
refuses to move, pretend
you see a
little creature running
off like a
mouse. Get excited and
move off towards
it, saying in an eager
voice, “Oh wow! What’s
that? Quick let’s see what
it is!”
Most
dogs won’t be
able to resist
their natural curiosity
and will leave
their stubborn rebel
stance to come
after you and
see what you’re
looking at.
You
being excited and
curious is not what
your dog is
expecting from you. Once
your dog is
walking again, move smoothly
back into using
the Opposite Way technique
the second you
feel any tension
on the leash.
How long could
the Opposite Way
technique take before
it works?
It
depends on how
pushy your dog is
– and how much
respect it has
for your leadership
skills. Let’s face it, if
your dog’s been
pulling on the
leash for years, it’s
not going to
give up the
leadership easily within
minutes.
Work on
perfecting there being
no tension on
the leash around your
back yard and
maybe around the
inside of your
house before you venture
off your property. Now
you’ll feel confident
you can stop your
dog pulling before
you go out
in public. Congratulations on
getting this far! Stopping
a dog from
pulling on the
leash is one
of the hardest
walking challenges you’ll
have to win.
The best
attitude to have
if you want
faster results is to
be aloof, firm and very confident. Stay relaxed
no matter what
challenge your dog
throws at you. Never
allow your dog to see
you getting flustered. Every tiny
bit of frustration
you feel will
be picked up
by your extremely
observant dog. Your
sense of helplessness
will keep energizing
your dog to
keep testing you
even longer. Oh – and by
the way – your dog
can smell exactly
how
you feel so
find a nice, determined attitude. You’ll be
surprised at what
a massive difference
it makes. For every
signal of helplessness
you display – your dog
wins a point.
Is your dog
still pulling you
along?
I’ll
now show you
some ingenious ways
dogs win valuable
points on the
walk that earn
them the right
to keep pulling
on the leash.
Dogs win
points by hurrying
you along with
their impatience, energy and
noise.
If
your dog goes
crazy when the
leash comes out
and races around
barking – it isn’t just
showing you how
excited it is. Most
of this noisy, uncontrollable behaviour
is a way
of grabbing control
of the situation. Your dog is
trying to push
and hurry you
along. Every time it
hurries you along
faster than your
usual pace, your dog
wins a point.
So
take back control
of the pace. From
now on – do the
exact opposite of
what your dog is
trying
to get you
to do. If it’s
trying to hurry
you along – simply go
slower and in
a sleepier, more relaxed
way. Never get frustrated
or impatient or
your dog will
know it’s winning!
On the
other hand, if your
dog goes deliberately
slower
and pauses a lot
– hurry it along
at a brisker, no-nonsense pace. Keep
your chin nice and
high. Stay very calm
and in control. Do
the exact opposite
pace of what
your dog is
trying to make
you do.
To stop
a dog racing
around when you
get the leash
out
before a walk, set
up a permanent
mat inside your
house. If you don’t
like your dog
inside, have this mat
near your front
door. Have a leash
secured near it in readiness.
From now on,
whenever it’s time
to go for
a walk, always call
the dog to
this mat and clip
it on it’s
secured leash. Now you
have much more
control to start
readying the dog
for the walk.
If
the dog keeps
running around you
and not coming
close – (a clever way of winning
points from you) be
smart and use
a yummy food
treat and crouch
down with your
back to dog
and make soft
curious, excited noises as
though there’s a
little mouse trapped
in your cupped
hands. When the dog
comes to investigate
what’s in your
hands, raise your chin
and calmly clip
it on the
secured leash. Reward with
a long 2
second sleepy closing
of eyes.
Teach your dog
to sit calmly
without a sound
while you clip
its walking leash
on.
Your
dog should learn
the habit of
sitting calmly, without making
any noises like
barking and whining
as you clip
its walking leash
on. If it’s secured
on it’s mat
leash first, you can
really take calm
control of the
situation.
With your
chin raised high, calmly
walk over to
your dog with your
arms folded. Turn your
head turned slightly
away so it
doesn’t get too
excited. Firmly give the
dog the command
to “SIT”. Keeping your
chin raised, lean down
and clip the
leash on the
dog.
Keep
repeating this until
the dog is
sitting calmly, quietly and
respectfully. Do not unclip
the first secured
leash until the
dog is behaving
exactly how you
want.
If your
dog keeps acting
in a demanding
way, still
barking and refusing
to sit quietly – stand up
calmly. Fold your arms
and keep your
chin raised high. Turn
your head away
and yawn sleepily. Repeat as
often you need
to.
If the
dog simply won’t
stop misbehaving, leave it secured
and go and
sit down and
watch a comedy
DVD or read
a good book. Keep
coming over and
repeating the same
routine until the
dog gets bored
and relaxes.
What we’re
after at this
stage
is for your
dog to sit
calmly on the
mat with just
its walking leash
clipped on. Quietly and
patiently waiting for
your command to
walk off with
you when you
say, “BACK” (meaning walk back
behind me).
If you’re
absolutely, having no luck
at getting to this stage – then your
dog has too
high a point
score and is
determined to remain Boss
of the Walk. If
this is the
case, go through the sheets, “The
25 secret ways dogs become
our Boss” and
work out which
challenges you’re losing
at the moment. Perhaps you’re
giving your dog
too much attention? Perhaps you’re
allowing your dog
to have too
many privileges like
sitting on the
couch or sleeping
on the bed? Perhaps
you allow your
dog to bark
too much inside
the house?
If
your dog’s been
winning too many
of these 25
classic challenges, it means
your dog has
earned the right
to challenge you in
all sorts of
ways on the
walk – even before you
leave the house.
Dogs win points
by slowing you
right down and
making you wait.
Throughout
the walk, does your
dog constantly stop
and make you
wait while it
sniffs at something? This is
a clever way
for your dog
to prove it
can make you
obediently wait for
it.
I
find if you
keep walking briskly, your
dog still gets
plenty of chances
to smell the
world passing by. Pull
it along firmly
if it keeps
stopping and sniffing
things. Some dogs make
small, constant urinations to
scent-mark as they
walk and this
is a very dominant thing
to do.
Solution: Keep a nice
brisk walking pace
and drag your
dog along firmly
if it keeps
stopping to sniff
or scent-mark. After about
2 weeks of
testing, your dog will
believe you’re serious
about not letting
it constantly stop. No
longer are you
going to wait
obediently and subserviently
for it to
finish smelling something
at leisure.
Dogs win points
by invading your
personal space.
Some dogs
jump all over
you during the
walk. Each
time they plant
their paws on
you, they win valuable
points. This is an
extremely dominant thing
to do so
you should have
zero tolerance to it.
Other dogs
try to invade
your personal space by
treading on your
toes, nudging you for
pats, tripping you over, getting
tangled up in
your legs and barging
into you. All of
these things are
dominant behaviours and
win your dog
powerful points. Dogs are
extremely aware of
invading someone else’s
personal space so
don’t make the
mistake of thinking
your dog is
just being silly
or clumsy.
Your dog
should respect the
bubble of space
around you and not
come inside it
in a rude, demanding manner
making you feel
uncomfortable. If it is
rudely invading your
personal space, then you
know your dog
doesn’t believe you
have the right
to be leader
yet. The sheets, “The 25
secret ways dogs
become our Boss”
has lots of
ideas of how
to protect your
personal space and
make it a
special safe place
that should be
respected.
Dogs win points
by blocking you.
Take
care that your
dog doesn’t deliberately
block your way by stopping
right in front
of you. If you stop
or walk around
it – then you lose
valuable points. This is
an easy challenge
for you to
win. Just raise your
chin, fold your arms
and walk straight
through your dog
as though it’s
not there. Ignore any
yelps or drama it
tries to make. Your
dog should respectfully
melt out of
your way all
the time. That’s your
right as the
Boss of the
Walk. The Leader always
has right of
way.
Dogs win points
by using the leash to
cause you discomfort.
Dogs
still have strong
predator instincts so
are incredibly good
at spotting your
physical weaknesses. They can
learn to use
the leash against
you as a
weapon.
They
can drag you
backwards or swing
side to side
or lean at
an angle to
cause pain on
your spine and
back. They do this
hoping you’ll give
in and let
them take control
of the walk – or
even better – let them
off the leash
altogether.
If your
dog is using
the leash as
a weapon, slow the walk
right down to
very slow steps
and keep stopping
and making your
dog sit every
few steps. Only walk
forward if your
dog stays calmly
at your side.
For extremely
stubborn dogs who
keep using this
trick – I
raise my chin
high and keep
walking into them
in a smooth, calm
and aloof manner
as though nothing
at all is
wrong. The dog learns
to move rapidly
out of my
way to avoid
being trodden on. Each
step it takes
backwards to avoid
me actually wins
me a point. Stepping backwards
for dogs is
a very submissive
thing to do.
Then I
test the dog by
smoothly walking off
in another direction
as though nothing
unusual is happening. If
the dog stays
calmly and respectfully
at my side
I reward it
with a sleepy
yawn, closing my eyes
for 2 long
seconds and breathing deeply. I
repeat until the
dog stops testing
me. If a dog
has made this
one of its
favourite walking challenges – you might
find it testing
you for weeks
or even longer. Energetic teenager
dogs can really
learn to use the leash
as a weapon
to try and
hurt your back.
With dogs
who try to
use the leash
as a weapon
against your back – walk slower
and give more
relaxing signals to
slide the dog
out of its
challenging mood.
Dogs win points
by using the
leash as a
way of causing
confusion.
Some
dogs use the
leash to cause
maximum confusion. They deliberately
get tangled up
in it. They walk
on one side
of you, then suddenly
move to the
other. If they can
slow you down
or get you
to constantly stop
to untangle the
leash, they win valuable
points.
If you
keep your dog
on a short
leash
for a while
with your chin
raised high and
your arm held
out away from
your body, you can
stop the leash
getting deliberately tangled
up by your
dog.
How two or
more dogs can
work together to
cause chaos.
Two
or more dogs
can deliberately work
together to cause
chaos and distract
you so they
can wrestle the
leadership off you.
After
they knock you
out of the
walking competition, they only
have to test
each other to see who
the ultimate Boss
of the walk
is.
If this
is your problem,
practice walking your
dogs in your
back yard and
around your house
before you leave
your property. Tie up
one dog and
walk the other
dog around, getting it
calm and respectful. Then tie
it up and
teach your second
dog polite manners. Once
both are very well-behaved, you can
practice walking both
dogs together. You may
like to start
by having one
dog leash in
each hand, holding your
arms a little
out from your
body.
The second
they both start trying
to bark, whine, race around, misbehave or
start play-fighting – be very
firm and say, “ENOUGH!” in
a loud, disgusted voice
as you jerk
each leash sharply. Stop
walking the moment
they try to
start any nonsense
and anchor your
feet firmly to the ground. Get
them both to
“COME” and “SIT”
for you at
least 5 times. This
will remind them
you won’t accept
any challenging behaviour.
If one
dog keeps trying
to start trouble, say
the dog’s name
in a low, firm, disgusted voice and
jerk its leash
in warning. It will
help if you
raise your chin
high during the
walk and act
in an aloof, no-nonsense manner.
Don’t
keep patting or
talking to the
dogs in a happy,
high-pitched voice. This will
quickly slide them
into an over-excited
mood. Don’t keep intently
watching them or
they’ll see it
as an invitation
to start playing
boisterously.
The
more often you
get both dogs
to come and
sit politely for
you – the faster you’ll
slide them into
a calm, respectful mood.
Dogs use aggression
to show off
how dominant they
are.
If
your dog is
using aggression out
on the walk
then it doesn’t
respect you as leader.
If there’s
any aggression out on the
walk, get
your dog to
calm down by
slowing down your
pace and asking
it come to
you and sit
many times. Keep your
chin raised and
act in a
very aloof manner
when you’re around
it.
Slide your
dog out of
its aggressive mood by
getting sleepier and calmer
while it’s sitting
well out of
the way of
other people and
dogs. Keep your chin
raised very high
and act very
aloof. While it’s sitting
at your side, turn
your head away
and yawn sleepily
and slow your
breathing right down. We
are now using
calming signals to
show that we’re
in control of
the situation.
I suggest
that when you
go home, you do a few things
to make your
dog feel less
important. Take away some
of its special
privileges. For example,
pick up
all its dry
food left out
in bowls to
nibble at like
an easy snack. I
also suggest you
don’t feed an
aggressive dog that
night or give
it any affection
or attention. Secure it
instead on a
secured leash and
mat in a
corner of the
room and ask
everyone to ignore
it for the
rest of the
day and evening. This
will make it feel much
less important. Seek professional
help or contact
me if the
aggression doesn’t subside
dramatically by the
second day.
You’ll
certainly need to
go back through
the sheets, “The 25 secret
ways dogs become
our Boss” and
see where your
dog is winning
too many points. Dogs
with a very
high point score
can start using
aggression to prove
they’re more dominant
than everyone else – especially when
they venture out
in public. It’s a very serious
matter and should
be dealt with
at once.
I strongly
recommend you never
take a dog
showing aggression off
the leash out
in public. Nothing is worth
the risk of
a tragic dog
bite incident or
getting in trouble
over an aggressive
dog.
The scary day
your dog, without warning, wants to
seriously attack another
dog.
Be
aware that some
pushy dogs upon
reaching adulthood prove
how dominant they
are by attacking
something. They usually try
to attack another
dog without warning
when they’re out
in public. The age
you really have
to watch is
about 18 months
to 2 years. This
attack can be
very sudden
and terrifying to
experience because you
may not have
gotten any warning
that an attack
was about to
happen.
WARNING: If
your dog suddenly
attacks a dog
out on the
walk then you
know it’s showing
everyone in the
vicinity just how
dominant it is.
Is your dog
lunging out, trying to
attack other dogs
on the end
of its leash?
If
your dog has
started aggressively lunging
out at other
dogs, try this. As you
approach another dog – move
off the footpath
to a safe
distance. Hold your dog
on a short
leash, not letting it
“lock” eyes with
the other dog. This
means you should
have it sitting
facing away from
the approaching dog. I
want your feet
anchored to the
ground and your
body blocking your
dog so it
can’t even look
properly at the
approaching dog.
We want
your dog holding
your gaze instead. Be very
aloof and raise
your chin high. Keep
a firm gaze
locked down at
it from the
corner of your
eyes like this:
If it
tries to look
back at the
other dog, growl or wriggle
away – anchor your feet, hold
the leash tightly
so it can’t
move away and
give the leash
a jerk as
you firmly and
calmly say, “LEAVE IT!” This
isn’t confrontational or
angry – but rather a
firm reminder to
your dog that
you’re in charge
and you won’t
stand for any
nonsense. Be calm, aloof and
very confident.
CAUTION:
If
your dog wants
to lunge up
and attack you
in this situation, then you definitely
need professional help
as your dog
has crossed a
dangerous line.
To improve
your chances of
success on stopping
your dog from
lunging out at
other dogs, I’d first practice
getting your dog
to sit for
you on command
many times at
home. You want your
dog getting in
the habit of
sitting smoothly and
instantly for you
as many times
as you need
it to. Then when you’re
in a serious
situation out on
the walk – you have
a much better
chance of getting
your dog to
sit. I like getting
aggressive dogs to
sit perfectly hundreds
of times for
you at home
while it’s on
a leash. Inside the
house. For its dinner. Around the
back yard. So get
it in the habit
of sitting instantly
whenever you give
the command “SIT”.
Even if
you can’t get
your dog to sit – ask it to stand
calmly, facing you.
Obediently holding your
gaze until the
other dog’s passed. We
want to stop
your dog staring
intently “at the
enemy”, making growling,
whining or barking
noises or moving
around. Just being still, calm
and quiet and
watching you for
signals will be
a huge improvement
for a dog
who once lunged
out at passing
dogs. Now you’re in
control of the
situation, not your dog.
What we’re
looking for is
a dog who
simply looks submissively
away from the
other dog, waiting calmly
until you give
it the command
to move off
again. Reward calm behaviour
after the other
dog passes with
a sleepy closing
of eyes for
a long 2 seconds and
slow breathing. That’s enough
calm praise for
an aggressive dog.
Eventually,
with some practice,
your dog
should always sit
quietly for you
as another dog
passes. When it can
do this well – move
on to the
next stage. Practice walking
briskly past other
dogs with the
same firm attitude. By
now your dog
will be getting
used to not
looking at other
dogs when you
say, “LEAVE IT”.
After a
while, your
dog will get
used to leaving
other dogs alone. You may see
your dog yawning
with its chin
down before and
after another dog
passes and this
is wonderful. It means
your dog is
deliberately making an
effort to calm
itself down. As a
reward I say
“GOOD DOG” in
a low, calm voice. I
like dogs getting
addicted to doing
the right thing
for your approval.
I think
it’s unrealistic to
think you’ll ever
socialize your dog
with every sort
of dog out
there – especially off-leash – but you
can certainly make
most dog situations
much safer. Once you
prove you’re the
undisputed leader of
the walk, then you’ve
earned the right
to tell your dog
not to be
aggressive – and your dog
should respect you
enough to obey. After
you have calm
control of your
dog, you can work
on relaxing it
by raising your
chin only slightly, slowing your
breathing right down
and sleepily closing
your eyes for 2 long
seconds at a
time.
If your
dog ignores you
and continues to
be aggressive, then it’s showing
you still have
more work to
do before it
completely trusts you
to be leader.
If this
is the case, it will
help if you
carefully re-read these
sheets and work
out where your
dog is still
winning points out
on the walk. Also
go through the
sheets, “The 25 secret
ways dogs become
our Boss” to
pinpoint the classic
challenges you’re still
losing around the
house. Take away all
your dog’s special
privileges until it
becomes less aggressive. Remember – the lower
your dog’s point
score – the more willing
it will be
to listen to
you. No dog with
a high point
score is going
to bother listening
to you in
a serious crisis
involving aggression. It’s up
to you to
make sure you
become your dog’s
undisputed leader.
Some helpful tricks
I’ve learned from
great leader dogs.
Some
of my best
teachers have been
the amazing lead
dogs I’ve known. I
love observing their
clever strategies for
controlling large packs
of dogs. Here’s some
simple but clever
tricks they taught
me.
Raise your chin
high as soon
as you feel
your dog challenging
you.
You
may have noticed
how often I
say to keep
your chin raised
high. This tells your
dog you’re taking
charge. You’ll be surprised
what a difference
it makes!
Keep an eye
on how high
or low your
dog is carrying
its tail.
Your
dog will give
away how much
it’s in the
mood to challenge
you by how
high it carries
it’s tail. Beware a dog with
a tail held
very high and
springy with tense
energy – it’s in the
mood to test
your leadership! I know
some dogs have
naturally held-high tails
or docked tails – but
if you discreetly
watch – there’s still a
high angle and
a low tail
angle for every
dog.
Recognize
an ingenious dog
pretending to be well behaved
when it’s really
waiting for the
perfect opportunity to
misbehave.
Some
dogs have learned
to walk along
beside you with
their head and
tail down low, looking
as though they’re
really concentrating on
behaving. They work hard
on keeping their
tail low because
they don’t want
the smell of
their real feelings
escaping through their
anus and giving
the game away.
Dogs
who carry their
tail high don’t
care if everyone
knows their ambitious
intentions.
Keep
an eye out
for a dog
who’s carefully waiting
for the perfect
moment to throw
a clever challenge
at you. Look for
that tail being
carried unnaturally low
while the dog
is vibrating with
pushy energy. They also
keep constantly looking
intently up at
you to see
if you’re noticing
their challenging mood
yet. The dog may
look like this:
These
sorts of cunning
dogs usually wait
until you’re distracted – then without
warning – suddenly lunge after
something. Or they whip
around on the
leash to suddenly
smell something on the ground
to cause you
discomfort. This sort of
cunning behaviour is
usually done by
very energetic, pushy teenage
dogs who aren’t
getting enough exercise. In
this sort of
mood, they’re on a
deliberate mission to
win valuable points
at strategic moments
on the walk.
Pretend to sniff
a pushy dog.
This
is a trick
I’ve seen many
wise lead dogs
use. If a dog’s
being constantly pushy
or a bit
sneaky so you
can’t relax – bend over
in an aloof, disgusted way
and suspiciously sniff
the air above
its tail. By doing
this suspicious sniffing, you’re telling
your dog you’re
smart enough to
know it’s up
to no good. If
you’re the leader – then
your dog will
instantly lower its
tail and stop
behaving in such
an irritating, pushy manner. Much
of that pushy
energy will instantly
cease after the
dog shakes itself. If
this doesn’t happen, then
it’s a sign
you need to work on
your leadership skills. Don’t
over-use this trick
as you want
to keep its
power intact – so only
use it sparingly.
Recognize
when a dog’s
only pretending to
be shy and
scared.
Some
dogs pretend to
be much more
nervous and shy
than they really
are. Why? Because they’ve found
it earns them
lots of extra
privileges from humans. They
win lots of
extra points with
minimum effort. Keep an
eye out if
your shy dog
is manipulating you
to try and
gain control of
the walk. No matter
how shy, scared or
nervous you believe
your dog to be
– make sure you still
win all the
challenges out on
the walk that
I mention in
these sheets – as well
as all the
classic challenges at
home.
One favourite
challenge used by
these supposedly shy
dogs
is to make
you wait obediently
while they sniff
and scent-mark for
long, long minutes. So go
through these walking
challenges and see
what else your
shy dog is
getting away with!
An aloof attitude
is a powerful
attitude.
You’ll
see me keep
saying in these
sheets to have
an aloof attitude
if you’re dog
isn’t behaving in
a calm, polite way. This
is how most wise lead
dogs behave around
an unruly, challenging dog. Your
dog will instinctively
recognize proper leader
behaviour when it
sees it – and be
impressed.
You
won’t get great
results with these
sheets if you
have a weak
attitude such as trying to
be loving friends
with a dog
who’s constantly misbehaving. Or if
you try to
have rowdy games
or conversations. Or if you get
loud and over-excited. Or if
you get frustrated
and helpless. All of
these weak attitudes
will just make
your dog challenge
you more. Your dog
will only trust
you to be
leader once you
act like a
leader.
Learn to relax
a dog straight
after a confrontation
moment.
One
of the most
important things you
can do after
there’s been a
tense confrontational moment
out on the
walk is to relax your
dog. This is one
of the most
powerful ways you
can prove what
a wonderful leader
you are – and that
you can be
trusted to be
in control. Calmness is like
an natural addictive
drug for dogs –
they’re fascinated by
it and love
it. If you can
give your dog
the gift of
calmness as well
as leadership, it will
be very impressed
and grateful.
The
easiest way to
relax a dog
is to slow
your breathing right
down, raise your chin
slightly and sleepily
close your eyes
for a long
2 seconds. Then look
away and get
on with things. For
extra power, sleepily yawn
with your head
turned away – but don’t
over-use your yawn. Keep
this powerful yawn
for big moments. The
main way you
can reward your
dog is to make your
energy as calm
as possible.
Learn to look
for that head
or body shake
After
an intense moment, dogs
rid themselves of any remaining
tension by shaking
their head or whole body. When
you see that tension releasing
shake you know
you’re making progress
because it’s a
sign your dog’s mentally giving
in and doesn’t
feel the need
to challenge you
as much. Dogs tense
up if they
intend on challenging
you more. Reward these head and
body shakes with
a sleepy closing
of your eyes.
Learn to look
for the give-in yawn
When
you see your
dog yawn, you know
you’re definitely making
progress! It’s a sure
sign your dog
is giving in. It’s
like your dog’s saying to you,
“OK, chill out. I’m
going to stop
challenging you as
much as I have been. Look
how calm I’m
making myself.”
Whenever
you see that
yawn, reward your dog
with a long
2 second sleepy
closing of your
eyes and then
look away for
a while.
The best way
to respond to
a genuinely scared, nervous dog.
With
a genuinely scared, nervous dog – it’s
eyes will be wide open
and round and it will
react in desperate, darting movements. They also
start panting heavily. With
dogs like these, I
slow the walk
right down and
really use lots
of relaxing signals – the
sleepy closing of
eyes, slow breathing and occasional yawns
with your head
turned away. I get
my breathing as
deep and as
calm as I can.
I still
get the dog
to calmly lose all
the walking challenges
to me but
I give its
mind and nerves
lots of short rests.
I give
the dog a rest by
stopping and taking
a step away from
the dog every
now and again
when I see
its stress levels
rising too much.
Taking a
step away from
the dog once
you’ve come to
a stop allows
it to relax. It takes a lot
of the mental
pressure off it. It’s the sort of
wise, thoughtful behaviour that
reassures a nervous
dog that you
can certainly be
trusted to be
in charge.
I find
after a few
routine walks where you
consistently and calmly
win all the
walking challenges, that most
of the fear in a
shy dog drops
away completely. Scared dogs
are very reassured
by humans who
understand all the
classic dog challenges
and how to
win them. They also
enjoy humans who know how
to use basic calming dog
signals. Think about it – you
may be the
first human your shy dog
has ever met
who speaks its own language!
In my
experience, when you have a shy
dog – give
relaxing signals rather
than touching it
to reassure and
reward it – you’ll find
you get much
faster results.
Learn to anchor
your feet to
the ground.
I
find some pushy dogs are
very clever at
tricking inexperienced people
into being very
unstable on their
feet. Learn to be
confident and really
‘own’ the ground
you’re standing on. Don’t
keep moving back politely or helplessly out
of your dog’s way.
Don’t let yourself
be dragged this
way and that. Get
a low center
of gravity and super-glue your
feet to the
ground when you
come to a
stop. Make the dog move
around you using
the leash. Become the
powerful sun your
dog moves around – not
the other way
around!
What can you
do if your
dog learns to
stand or lie in a rock-stubborn way
anchored to one
spot?
If you get
a dog who
anchors itself to
the ground stubbornly, refusing to
move so it can win powerful points – then
don’t get into
a battle of
tug-of-war with the
leash.
Instead, raise your
chin high, fold your
arms and act
calmly as you
walk right through
the dog. In fact
act as though
your dog is
isn’t even there and
nothing unusual is happening.
Keep walking through
your dog until
accepts you know
how to handle
this challenge in
a calm way.
If this
doesn’t work with a
really stubborn dog who’s intent
on winning this
challenge – get clever and use the Pretend
Mouse Technique.
Continue reading about how to win the battle of the walk in Part 2 here!
Buy now as a paperback from ABC Books Australia here!
Buy now as an e-book from Amazon here!
“What’s Your Dog Telling You?” is an absolute must for all dog owners. If you have a sensitive, shy, or anxious dog it’s essential! It was a bestseller in its first year. It covers so much – dog language signals, behavior problem solutions and how dogs think in different situations.
Buy now as an e-book at Amazon here!
My other book, “What’s Your Dog Teaching You?” is a fascinating book too. This shares 60 life lessons of how dogs can teach humans to lead a happier, more inspiring life. I believe dogs are some of the most influential teachers we’ll ever have in our life. They’ve certainly transformed my life completely. What’s your dog trying to teach you?
Many people tell me they buy my books as great gifts for other dog lovers. You may also like to share these free sheets with other friends who have dogs. I believe in sharing free information around as much as possible!
Pre-order now as a paperback from Amazon here!
Now I'm really excited - my memoir about my time living with a pack of street dogs in Garryowen, Ireland as a boy is being published in New York. The book's called, 'The Boy Who Talked To Dogs,' (SkyHorse). This is the story of how I really started translating what dogs are saying - a great book - I'm very proud of it!
Extract from Amazon:
When Martin McKenna was growing up in Garryowen, Ireland, in the 1970s,
he felt the whole world knew him as just “that stupid boy.” Badly
misunderstood by his family and teachers, Martin escaped from endless
bullying by running away from home and eventually adopting—or being
adopted by—six street dogs. Camping out in barns, escaping from farmers,
and learning to fend for himself by caring for his new friends, Martin
discovered a different kind of language, strict laws of behavior, and
strange customs that defined the world of dogs. More importantly, his
canine companions helped him understand the vital importance of family,
courage, and self-respect—and that he wasn’t stupid after all. Their
lessons helped Martin make a name for himself as the “Dog Man” in
Australia, where he now lives and dispenses his hard-earned wisdom to
dog owners who are sometimes baffled by what their four-legged friends
are trying to tell them.
An emotional and poignant story seasoned with plenty of Frank McCourt–style humor, The Boy Who Talked to Dogs is an inspiration to anyone who’s ever been told he or she won’t amount to anything. It’s also a unique, fascinating look into canine behavior. In these pages, Martin shows how modern life has conditioned dogs to act around humans, in some ways helpful, but in other ways unnatural to their true instincts, and how he has benefited enormously from learning to “talk dog.”
An emotional and poignant story seasoned with plenty of Frank McCourt–style humor, The Boy Who Talked to Dogs is an inspiration to anyone who’s ever been told he or she won’t amount to anything. It’s also a unique, fascinating look into canine behavior. In these pages, Martin shows how modern life has conditioned dogs to act around humans, in some ways helpful, but in other ways unnatural to their true instincts, and how he has benefited enormously from learning to “talk dog.”
You can also find Martin McKenna on
Facebook here!
Or you can find him on Youtube here!
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